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How to do Norway in a Nutshell on Your Own

Houses along one of the Norway fjords seen on a Norway in a Nutshell tour

When I first suggested that we visit Norway, Lance was a little dubious. Admittedly, it wasn’t a place that’s been on our radar for years. But as soon as I showed him photos of the spectacular Norwegian fjords and Bergen’s picturesque old town, no more convincing was needed. We were ready to plan our Norway adventure, starting with our own DIY Norway in a Nutshell tour.

 Colorful houses dot the sides of a fjord in Norway. One of the most economical ways to see them is by planning Norway in a Nutshell on your own

What is the Norway in a Nutshell Route?

Norway is 1100 miles long—a huge country with lots of amazing natural features and things to see, and not all of it is easy to reach. Plus, not everyone has weeks of vacation to explore the fjords, islands, villages, and cities. Thus, there is “Norway in a Nutshell”—a route that stretches from Oslo to Bergen that provides a snapshot of some of the gorgeous things Norway is known for.

Along the journey, there are raging waterfalls, colorful fishing cabins, and millennia-old gorges known as fjords that were carved when the Earth was a much younger place. Norway in a Nutshell lets you see them all relatively quickly and easily, which is why it’s one of the most popular Norway tourist routes.

Pink houses in the Norwegian countryside as seen on the Oslo to Myrdal train ride

Norway in a Nutshell isn’t actually a guided tour, which is a common misconception. It’s simply a collection of tickets for public transportation that have the visitor go from point A to point B over several different segments and methods of travel. It’s super convenient, but like lots of things in Norway, it can be on the pricier side. For us, there was no reason not to handle the tickets ourselves and save a few dollars to use for our fabulous dog sledding and Northern Lights excursions later in the trip.

The typical route is Norway in a Nutshell from Oslo to Bergen. It begins with a train ride from Oslo to Mydral followed by an excursion on the historic Flam railway. In Flam, things get really exciting when you board the ferry for a two-hour ride through the fjords to Gudvangen. From there, a combination of a bus and train take you to Bergen, Norway’s second largest city.

When you plan Norway in a Nutshell on your own, you can customize (to a degree) what to see in Norway and in what order. Some people do the reverse route from Bergen to Oslo while others do just part of the journey. Many people go all-in and do the full round trip.

The snowy Norwegian countryside as seen on the train from Oslo to Myrdal Norway

While the Norway in a Nutshell itinerary is pretty flexible, it’s also long. We discovered that leaving Oslo shortly after 8am wouldn’t get us into Bergen until about 9:30 that night.

We wanted to see everything possible along the trip without being super exhausted due to jet lag. We also didn’t want to miss the beautiful Norway scenery because the sun had already set, so we decided to break up the trip with a stop for the night in the harbor village of Flam. If your Norway trip itinerary doesn’t allow that flexibility, you can book everything for the same day.

A boat in the harbor in tiny Flam. This cute town is one of the best Norway places to visit

Planning a DIY Norway in a Nutshell tour

We started our planning by looking at the Norway in a Nutshell website to get an idea of the timing for each leg of the trip as well as beginning and ending times for the segments. Using that information, we visited the websites for the train, ferry, and bus companies to confirm the schedules and book our own tickets.

Colorful buildings along the Flam railway as seen on a DIY Norway in a Nutshell tour

Oslo to Flam trains

The easiest part to book was the train. The trip from Oslo begins at 8:25am and lasts for 6 hours with a 29-minute stop in Mydral to transfer to the Flam Railway. Seats are reserved until the Myrdal stop, and you can select a seat in advance. From Myrdal to Flam, you will need to take any seat that’s available. If you book your Norway train tickets particularly early, you can get cheaper “mini-pris” advanced fare tickets. We got pdf tickets, which we printed at home for ease.

Green Flam Railway (Flamsbana) train car, which takes you on the second leg of your Norway in a Nutshell itinerary

Boarding the famous Flam railway which takes you on a journey that is a highlight of Norway travel

We found the views to be best on the left side of both trains, but I’m not sure it makes too much difference. On the Flam Railway—one of the highlights of our Norway itinerary—there are no reserved seats and people move back and forth to take photos on both sides of this old-fashioned steam train. No matter where you sit, you’re guaranteed great views of some of the prettiest landscape in the world.

There are ravines dotted with houses all the colors of the rainbow, vast mountains covered in evergreens, sweeping vistas, and people doing all manner of outdoor activities. It’s an absolutely gorgeous journey as you make your way through 20 tunnels to the village of Flam.

Colorful houses along a river snaking through a valley as seen on the Flam Railway trip in Norway. This trip is what to do in Norway, especially if you like train travel.

Snowy Norwegian countryside as seen from the train that goes from Myrdal to Flam, the Flam Railway

With only 350 residents, the village of Flam is regularly filled with many more visitors than people who actually live there. Though there are cycling, hiking, and other outdoor activities when the weather is warmer, it’s a fairly quiet place in mid-winter, and that’s exactly what we were looking for.

After wandering around a bit in the afternoon and trying to take photographs of scenery our cameras couldn’t do justice to, we visited the local craft brewery and restaurant attached to our hotel, Flamsbrygga. Lance tried some of their craft beers and we indulged in food fit for Vikings, which was perfect for the cold winter evening.

The buildings and harbor of Flam, Norway, flanked by a snow-covered mountain in winter. The town is a popular Norway tourist spot.

Flam, Norway, is one of the stops on a Norway in a Nutshell DIY tour and makes a great overnight destination

Flam to Gudvangen ferry

The afternoon we arrived in Flam, we made a quick stop at the tourist information center to buy ferry tickets for the Naeroyfjord tour the next morning to complete the next leg of our Norway in a Nutshell DIY trip. In high season, this is definitely something you’ll want to do ahead of time on the Visit Flam website.

Taking the ferry through the stunning Naeroyfjord on a Norway in a Nutshell Oslo to Bergen trip

Beautiful, colorful houses along one of the Norway fjords. Visiting the fjords is a must on a tour of Norway

The Naeroyfjord tour, which goes from Flam to Gudvangen, visits one of the longest and deepest fjords in the world. It’s been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with another Norwegian fjord called Geirangerfjord. Since we stayed the night in Flam, we got the 9:30am ferry and were able to watch as the sun crawled its way across the sky lighting up the crevices and inlets along our trip. (In the summer, there are more ferry options and the times are different.)

The Norway scenery on a tour of the fjords

The scenery along the two-hour fjord journey is the most dramatic thing we’ve ever seen. On either side of the ferry, mountains rose up nearly 5000 feet as we sliced our way across the frigid water.

Cruising through the fjords is a key part of any Norway itinerary

Laced with snow in some places and waterfalls in others, the cliffs and craggy mountain slopes were epic. At two points along the way, we stopped to pick up people from brightly-colored villages even smaller than Flam. The ferry expertly turned and bent to make its way to the tiny port stops, and we marveled at every moment. As beautiful as the Flam Railway trip was the day before, nothing could hold a candle to the fjords.

Disembarking the ferry in Gudvangen from a tour of the Norway fjords

Gudvangen to Voss bus

Our visit to the Norway fjords ended in Gudvangen, and transferring onward couldn’t have been simpler. Just a few steps from the port (Gudvangen kai), bus 950 to Voss (Voss stasjon) was already waiting for us.

We had about 20-30 minutes to grab a snack at the combined cafeteria and gift shop at the port and easily bought our bus tickets on board. It’s a local bus, so it’s not possible to buy tickets in advance, but the schedule is available on the Skyss website. We had been a little worried about whether there would be enough seats and how the transfer would work. The reality is that this route—whether or not you purchase the Norway in a Nutshell package through the company—is built for tourists. It’s unlikely you’ll run into a problem getting stuck on any of the legs of the trip.

Taking the bus from Gudvangen to Voss is easy as part of the DIY Norway in a Nutshell tour

The bus ride from Gudvangen to Voss took 1 hour and 15 minutes. As with the other parts of the trip, the Norway scenery was lovely. There were houses to gawk at, waterfalls to see, and lots of picturesque countryside.

Voss to Bergen train

The bus from Gudvangen deposited us right on the doorstep of the Voss train station for the last part of the Norway in a Nutshell tour. It was time to head to Bergen. At the time of our trip, these tickets couldn’t be bought in advance, but they’re now available online, which makes everything much easier.

Bryggen, the colorful UNESCO World Heritage Site in Bergen, which is one of the best cities to visit in Norway

By the time the train to Bergen arrived in Voss, the sun was starting to sink lower on the horizon. For an hour and a half, we watched Norway speed by our windows. As with the earlier part of the trip, there was lots to see as we lost ourselves in the movement of the train and the landscape flashing by outside. Before we knew it, we arrived in Bergen, filled with anticipation for the next part of our Norway adventure.

DIY Norway in a Nutshell at a Glance

  • Oslo to Flam train — we paid 759 NOK per person – can be bought in advance at Vy
  • Flam to Gudvangen ferry — we paid 470 NOK per person – can be bought in advance at VisitFlam
  • Gudvangen to Voss bus — we paid 100 NOK per person – must be bought on board but schedules can be found at Skyss
  • Voss to Bergen train — we paid 204 NOK per person – can be bought in advance at Vy

We saved a total of $90 (714 NOK) for both of us booking our own tickets with very little effort rather than buying the formal package. If you’re short on time, that may not be worth it to you. For us, it helped finance a second night watching the Northern Lights, and that was priceless.

An overhead view of beautiful Bergen, Norway

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What do you think about How to do Norway in a Nutshell on Your Own?

  1. Stephen Garone August 2, 2017 at 7:34 pm #

    Nice piece! I did this tour a few years ago and really loved it!

  2. Esther August 3, 2017 at 4:01 am #

    Wow, that looks like an amazing trip. Good to know that it’s pretty easy to plan. Thank you for all the practical links.

  3. Ray August 10, 2017 at 7:06 pm #

    This is some great info to know about as I have some travel friends in Oslo and Bergen! I’m always on the lookout on how I can visit them without breaking the bank too much in Norway. This certainly helps. Thanks!

  4. William Camp August 13, 2017 at 3:32 pm #

    Thanks for the post. Me and the wife are heading over next month to trek Trolltunga. Can’t wait for the scenery! We opted to rent a car though as it seemed a bit cheaper than rail travel! Although Norway looks fiendishly expensive, at least it helps keep the masses away! I hope our photos are as good as yours!!

  5. Jenna September 21, 2017 at 12:56 pm #

    Norway is high on my travel wish list. I love how you break down the costs and suggest ways to save money. The views look amazing!

    • Laura Longwell September 22, 2017 at 12:38 am #

      It’s absolutely gorgeous! One of our favorite trips ever 🙂

  6. Anindita May 7, 2018 at 4:58 am #

    Thank you so much for this! I’m planning to take my toddler (he’ll be 3 yo at that time) for 1 day Norway in a Nutshell tour, but multiple vehicle changes seems impossible for him. So I plan to stay overnight at one of the stop. Do you recommend staying at Flam? Was there much to do/see there? Or do you recommend we stay in other town?

    Thanks so much 🙂

    • Lance Longwell May 10, 2018 at 11:51 pm #

      There’s really not a way to do the Norway in a Nutshell without multiple vehicle changes – the train/boat/bus combo. That said, we really enjoyed our stay in Flam. We had an afternoon there and then the evening, the next morning. Flam is a tiny town – TINY. No, there’s not a lot to do there. But it is a wonderful place to just sit and enjoy the incredible beauty of the fjords. If we were going back and doing it all over again (and knowing what we know now), we’d do it the same way – spending the night in Flam. Depending on time of year, there’s a lovely park in Flam with playground equipment for kids, which I’m sure you’re toddler will find enjoyable if given the chance. 🙂

  7. Elisa September 22, 2018 at 8:24 am #

    Great post!! Just wondering, when (which month) did you do the tour? We want to go the first week of november but I am a bit worried that it will rain all the time!!

    • Lance Longwell September 23, 2018 at 10:57 pm #

      We were there in March. We had some overcast and some clear skies while on the Norway in a Nutshell. We’ve heard it pretty much always rains in Bergen, but we were blessed with very sunny skies.

  8. Janice October 11, 2018 at 4:20 pm #

    Planning to do Oslo to Bergen early next June. Is there much to see or do in Gudvangen if we decided to spend the night there? Also, are there buses the next morning on to Voss, or do you have to wait for the afternoon ones? Is there any way to do this route via car? I’ve read you can drive all of it except for going through the fjord. Can you park at Flam and do a round-trip boat ride?

    • Lance Longwell October 17, 2018 at 8:32 pm #

      Hi Janice. Here are a few thoughts:

      Gudvangen. We wouldn’t recommend spending the night here. While it is pretty, Flam is much better. There’s not a ton to do in either place, it’s really about being in the place and experiencing the incredible scenery. With that said, there seems to be more to both see and do in Flam.

      Buses from Gudvangen to Voss. You’re looking for Gudvangen to Voss. On the Norwegian timetable, the word “Frå” means from, which should help. But yes, there are morning buses. Depending on day of the week and season, bus availability varies. There are significantly more buses in the afternoon, than morning. That said, as of the time of this writing, there are buses at: 9.45a, 11.40, 12.00, 13.20, 15.40, 15.43, 16.35, 17.25, and 18.05. There are even more buses on weekdays.

      Car. You can pretty much do the entire route in a car, although you’ll then miss out on fjords and much of the reason you came. There’s a tunnel between Flam and Gudvangen. You can do it, but you won’t see anything. The drive from Gudvangen to Voss and even on to Bergen is all possible with a private car. If you wanted to skip the rail section, you could drive from Bergen to Gudvangen and then on to Flam. From there you could round-trip on the ferry. There’s TONS of parking in Flam. There are two giant parking lots right at the harbor.

      The rail journey from Oslo to Myrdal was really quite beautiful in the winter. And the train from Myrdal to Flam is a wonder of engineering (and very beautiful) – one of the world’s great train trips. But if you’re heading out of Bergen, you can do the drive and the fjord sections without difficulty.

  9. MGB June 17, 2019 at 10:28 am #

    Hi! We are planning to visit Flam in last week of July. Tried booking train from Oslo to Flam via NSB – its giving me a price of NK 1,212 – and thats just from Oslo to Myrdal. we still have to book our trip from Myrdal to Flam.
    have the prices gone up or is the time of the year?

    • Laura Longwell June 20, 2019 at 1:12 am #

      It’s probably the time of year since you’re traveling in the heart of the high season.

  10. Josie July 27, 2019 at 11:29 am #

    Hi Laura! You mentioned that the train ride from Voss to Bergen cannot be booked in advance and must be bought at station. However, I can actually select the trip on the website Am I looking at the correct route/ departure station? Thank you!

    • Laura Longwell July 27, 2019 at 6:45 pm #

      That is a new (and welcome) development. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. We’ll update the article!

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