Budapest’s love affair with the springs that bubble below the city’s surface is a long one. For over two thousand years, locals and visitors have indulged in the refreshing waters that are now captured in a dozen spa complexes around the city. If you’re in search of relaxation, fun, and a slice of local life, the Budapest thermal baths are the places to go.
The bathhouses in Hungary have a culture all their own and differ from the experiences of visiting other hot springs such as the spas in Iceland or the natural springs of Saturnia in Italy. We have visited Budapest three times and been to several baths on each visit. Here’s a look at where to go, what to bring, and what to expect when you get there.
Why go?
Taking the waters is an integral part of the history of the city. From the ruins of the Roman’s ancient Aquincum to the 16th-century baths built by the Turks, it’s as much a part of Budapest as drinking Unicum and chowing down on langos. Along with visiting the ruin pubs in Budapest and digging deep into the city’s unique history, visiting the spas is one of our favorite things to do there.
The actual healing powers of the mineral-rich waters is debatable, but that doesn’t stop those who believe from soaking in them as treatment for skin, muscle, and joint ailments. Whether or not the minerals do a body good, the relaxing properties of basking in the water—often surrounded by beautiful architecture—are undoubted.
What to bring
Most spas will have supplies available to purchase, but you’ll save time and money if you can bring your own.
Swimsuit: No nudity here!
Towel: Some people prefer to bring two towels–one for use between pools and one for drying off when you leave–but we find one to be plenty because we only use it at the end.
Flip flops or water shoes: Inside floors can be slippery, and outdoor decks can be hot. Plus, there is often a lot of standing water other people have walked through, so we prefer to have shoes for lots of reasons.
Water bottle: Soaking in hot water can be dehydrating, so having your own water bottle is convenient. Some of the spas also let you try their mineral-rich drinking water, so your own bottle comes in handy.
Plastic bag: Having a bag for your wet swimsuit will help keep your other items dry when you’re finished.
Popular thermal baths
There are over 120 hot springs in Budapest feeding a dozen public bath complexes, plus other private pools in hotel spas. Each one has its own style and atmosphere. These are five of the popular locations we have visited.
Gellert Spa
We loved our visit to Gellert Spa and its warm pools. While Gellert has two outdoor pools (one is open only in the summer), its indoor pools are a must and make it a great place to visit in inclement weather. The day we visited the remarkable Art Nouveau building, it was pouring rain, so soaking in the hot spring waters surrounded by gorgeous mosaics was a particular treat.
Gellert is not typically as crowded as some of the other spas and caters to a slightly older, more relaxed group with fewer people looking for a party atmosphere. Set among marble columns and stained glass windows, the vibe here is upscale. For something unique, book a private bathing experience that comes with a bottle of Champagne.
Szechenyi Baths
The Szechenyi Thermal Baths, known as one of the best baths in Budapest, offers arguably the most famous image of the city. Every book, brochure, and magazine article includes an image of the bright yellow buildings and outdoor pools, usually with a picture of old men playing chess while having a soak. But Szechenyi is much more than a photo–it is an amazing experience in the European bath tradition.
We have been to Szechenyi several times (including visiting in December) and love wandering from pool to pool searching for the right ambiance and experience. Each pool feels different. Some seem to be magnets for younger visitors while others cater to older visitors who may have mobility challenges, and they all have different temperatures.
Szechenyi gets busy, but with 16 pools to visit, we have never felt crowded there. Still, it’s best to come early if you want a quieter visit that involves more locals (plus, it’s a little cheaper then). Alternatively, you can visit the Dayspalm section that is more exclusive. If you’ve always wanted to try a beer spa, they can make that happen, too.
Rudas Baths
At the foot of Gellert Hill in Buda, the Rudas Bath was first built in 1550 during Ottoman rule using the deep underground hot spring waters. Today it maintains key elements of a Turkish bath like its Turkish dome and octagonal pool.
The temperatures of the Rudas baths and swimming pool vary widely from 10 to 42C (50-108F). One of the pools, which we weren’t brave enough to try, actually has an ice dispenser that regularly adds ice every few minutes.
While the therapeutic water inside was lovely, our favorite spot was the rooftop pool. From that vantage point, you can soak with a panoramic view over the Danube River. It’s hard to find a better spot to relax in Budapest.
In the Turkish bath section, Monday and Wednesday plus Thursday and Friday mornings are for men only, and Tuesday is for women only. There are co-ed hours Thursday through Sunday.
Lukacs Baths
Thermal waters have been used in the location of Lukacs Baths for at least 700 years, and the current spa has welcomed visitors from around the world to heal in its pools–it’s even part of the National Institute of Rheumatology and Physiotherapy. Three outdoor pools and a series of smaller indoor pools make up the offerings here.
Leading up to our visit, we read several accounts describing Lukacs as being a more local experience and less crowded than other options. That is the opposite of what we experienced, perhaps because admission here is included for free with the Budapest Card, which is–by definition–for tourists. At one point, I noticed that the pool we were in was at 300% of the posted capacity. Needless to say, we did not last long here.
Palatinus Strand Baths
The Palatinus Strand Baths are located on Margaret Island, a popular park and recreation area in the middle of the Danube. The huge complex features 11 different pools fed by thermal springs outside as well as four indoor pools that can be visited year-round.
Everywhere we looked, there were kids, parents, and grandparents playing in the fountains, spread out on their towels in the grass, and otherwise just enjoying the beautiful summer day. The big draws at the Palatinus Baths are the wave pool, slides, and fountains. The plentiful fast food stands are also very popular and sell everything from delicious langos to hamburgers at reasonable prices.
The Palatinus Baths don’t have the unique architectural details of some of the other spas we’ve visited, but the huge outdoor space more than makes up for that. The entry fee here is roughly half of what you would pay at Szechenyi or Gellert, and it is also the only spa on this list that allows children under 14 without a medical prescription.
Know before you go
These tips will help you get the most from your visit to the spas.
When to visit: The baths we have listed are open year-round. Though some outdoor pools close in the winter, the ones that remain open are delightfully warm and can easily be enjoyed in the colder months. Weekends and holidays can be beyond busy, so it’s best to visit on a weekday, if you can.
Opening times: Opening times vary by season, day, and facility. If you want to avoid crowds, it’s best to go close to the time the bath opens. Some spas open at night to host parties (cleverly called “sparties“) complete with music, performances, and psychedelic light shows.
Visit duration: Most people (ourselves included) spend about 2 hours.
Services: Admission usually includes use of the pools, saunas, and steam rooms, but the spas may have other facilities available such as salt baths, private bathing rooms, and more, so check before you go. Spa treatments like massages and pedicures need to be booked in advance.
Storing your belongings: A locker is included in the admission price, but we always opt for a private cabin. The cabin gives you privacy in changing and allows more room to store your belongings. Making your way from the lockers or cabins to the pools can sometimes feel like a maze–just know you’re not alone in your confusion and go with it.
Restaurants: Most of the properties have cafes or food stands where you can get snacks and drinks, so you can hang out all day.
Lance Longwell is a travel writer and photographer who has published Travel Addicts since 2008, making it one of the oldest travel blogs. He is a life-long traveler, having visited all 50 of the United States by the time he graduated high school. Lance has continued his adventures by visiting 70 countries on 5 continents – all in search of the world’s perfect sausage. He’s a passionate foodie and enjoys hot springs and cultural oddities. When he’s not traveling (or writing about travel), you’ll find him photographing his hometown of Philadelphia.
Dany
Saturday 13th of August 2016
This is so wonderful, thanks for sharing. I'm going to share on my FB page!