Historic building at Old Salem North Carolina

Authentic Living at Old Salem in North Carolina

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“It’s Wednesday. And Wednesday is always onion bread day.”

The baker turned to face us with a smile as he slid several of the puffy, golden loaves out of the wood burning oven. On a nearby table, a pot of melted butter waited to be the finishing touch on the irresistible dough. As soon as the loaves could be wrapped up, trays of sugar cake would take their place in the oven.

Baker making onion bread loaves at Old Salem bakery in North Carolina
Heavenly-smelling onion bread being buttered and wrapped for sale

A version of these actions takes place every day at the C. Winkler Bakery at Old Salem Museum and Gardens. Sometimes it’s gingerbread; other times, tea cakes or the famous Moravian sugar cookies. This is life in an 18th-century town.

Onion bread loves and jar of melted buttered at Old Salem bakery
So good…

What is there to see in Old Salem?

Yarn and fabric being dyed in the workshop at the Single Brothers' House
Yarn and fabric being dyed in the workshop at the Single Brothers’ House

Throughout Old Salem Museums and Gardens, skilled craftsmen and interpreters live and work as though it were the late 1700s and early 1800s. Visitors can see the cobbler hand-crafting shoes in the Single Brothers’ House, yarn being dyed for weaving, and men making guns in the T. Vogler gunsmith shop. They can stop by the Tavern in Old Salem for bratwurst and beer like George Washington did when he stayed there in 1791.

There are carpenters, tinsmiths, and potters all practicing their trades while interacting with visitors. Some of their goods and other souvenirs are sold at T. Bagge Community Store.

Jars and tools in the apothecary in Old Salem, NC
Some of the tools used by Dr. Vierling

Every building has a story. In the Doctor’s House, we learned that Dr. Vierling wasn’t just a doctor—he was also a dentist, pharmacist, and veterinarian. We saw supplies like the kind he would have used and learned about the types of treatments available to the original residents of Old Salem. Female sisters showed us how clothes were made and talked about all the other duties that kept the household running. In the Vogler House, we saw jewelry and silver works done by its owner and learned more about life in the mid-1800s.

Log single-family home, the Miksch House
The shed in the rear of the Miksch House dates from 1785

At the Miksch House—the first single-family dwelling in Old Salem, North Carolina—men worked in the garden growing vegetables while women demonstrated various cooking and food preservation techniques inside. Throughout the year, the garden and kitchen are busy places full of seasonally-appropriate activities.

The first time we visited in the fall, it was time to dig up some of the last root vegetables of the season, and apples were being harvested. Inside, the menu included venison stew with carrots from the garden, and pickled beets were being preserved with homemade cider vinegar. On our second visit, in the winter, workers tended and harvested cold weather crops. A stop here is truly a peek inside life in the 1770s.

Freshly picked fall vegetables in the garden
Some of the fall crops from the garden at the Miksch House

Moravian Settlement History

But why the 1770s? Why here?

Salem was originally settled in 1766 by members of the Moravian Church, a Protestant denomination that began in the 1450s in what is now the Czech Republic. Many of the Moravians in North Carolina had moved south from an earlier settlement in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

Over time, Salem became the economic center of the area known as the Wachovia Tract, with a bakery, tannery, and slaughterhouse. It was even home to both a brewery and a distillery. The craftsmen of Salem were known for producing tools, ceramics, and metals, and the town had extensive gardens and orchards to feed its citizens.

Group of children listening to a lecture in the chapel by an organ
A school group learns about the single brothers’ and sisters’ choirs

The residents lived, worked, and worshiped together. They did not own the land where they lived but instead leased it from the Moravian church, with the money ultimately going for community expenses. The church governed all aspects of life, even encouraging education for both sexes at a time when schooling for girls in the South was irregular, at best.

Though industry moved in and Salem merged with nearby Winston to form Winston-Salem in 1913, the Moravian cultural and historic preservation continued. Thanks, in large part, to meticulous records the settlers kept, the buildings of Old Salem have been renovated and reconstructed when necessary to reflect life from 1766 to 1860. Of the 91 original buildings in the town today, approximately 20 buildings and gardens are open for visitors.

Colorful yarn skeins and spinning wheel
Spinning colorful yarn in the Single Brothers’ workshop

Before visiting Old Salem Museums and Gardens, our expectations weren’t particularly high. We’ve seen a number of living history museums over the years. Some good, some not-so-good. It’s easy for the history to become dry and the interpreters to seem like actors. But Old Salem is nothing like that at all.

Here, the history is truly living with the real activities of daily life taking place before your eyes. The workshops are engaging and authentic, and the buildings themselves are fascinating to look at. The interpreters are genuinely interested in being true to history and in communicating to the visitors their love for what they’re doing…starting with the onion bread.

When to Visit Old Salem

Old Salem Christmas decorations and Christmas pyramid
Many of the Christmas decorations are of German origin like this pyramid

Any time of year is a good time to visit Old Salem. In the spring, visitors can experience traditional Easter activities, visit the Gardens of Old Salem, and attend the Spring Festival at the Doctor’s House. Summer brings Fourth of July celebrations, concerts, and unique demonstrations. The fall is all about the harvest with activity at the Miksch House and the Harvest Day event—not to mention how pretty the grounds are as the leaves change.

In the winter, the museum comes alive with the sights and smells of Christmas. There is hot chocolate, ginger cookies, music, and a mix of German and American Christmas decorations. And an Old Salem Christmas isn’t complete without a candlelight tour.

Horse drawn carriage at Christmas
Carriage rides are available on Saturdays

Where to Eat at the Museum

Stop by the Old Salem bakery for a snack or treats to take home. The Moravian sugar cookies, sugar cake, and hot cross buns are top choices. We absolutely loved the cherry strudel we picked up. Head upstairs to enjoy a pastry and coffee.

The Tavern in Old Salem and the Flour Box Tea Room & Café offer more substantial fare. The Tavern has hearty meals inspired by Moravian traditions and made with local North Carolina ingredients. The Flour Box is a great stop for salads, sandwiches, tea (of course), and delicious cakes.

Old Salem Museums and Gardens Details

Times: Hours vary for the different shops and exhibit buildings; exhibit buildings are closed on Monday; consult the Old Salem website for specifics

Prices:
Shops are free and open to the public; adult admission to the exhibit buildings varies from $18 to $27 and child admission varies from $9 to $13, depending on the number of buildings visited and day of visit

Where to Stay in Winston-Salem

On both our visits to Winston-Salem, we’ve stayed at the Historic Brookstown Inn, a former 19th-century mill less than a half-mile from the museum. Decorated with art from local artists, the red-brick building hotel is full of charm and history. And you can’t beat the nightly wine and cheese happy hour or the milk and cookies later in the evening.

We were the guests of Visit Winston-Salem, Visit North Carolina, and the Brookstown Inn. All opinions of the historically fascinating are our own.

4 thoughts on “Authentic Living at Old Salem in North Carolina”

  1. Mary Ann Kernodle

    Well please do not waste your time going to Old Salem. My friend and I drove over 100 miles to see the place and the shops and places that they have advertised are no longer in existence. Practically all of the places which are advertised on the internet as being places at Old Salem that people can visit are now privately owned buildings and the public can no longer enter them. Do not expect to see people making pottery, baking, making candles, making shoes, making things with metal, quilting, making medicine, etc. They brag about the church and their Tavern—the tavern was closed and I could simply take a peek through the window to get the same rate of tour that I got of the church. Their director was rude. There was nothing at all really connecting to the spiritual side of their earlier life there. It has been totally secularized . The Moravians no longer own it—it has been sold out to other businesses that now own it.

    1. I’m sorry that was your experience. That doesn’t align with our visits. Things are quieter at certain points of the year or certain days of the week, but they’re actually running an expanded program on Saturdays in the spring right now. It includes things like a hands-on experience in the bakery, a group quilting party, organ concerts, and a joiners workshop, in addition to the other presentations by interpreters in the different buildings.

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